Insulation Removal / Add-Over Calculator

Topping up existing insulation? Find how many inches to add to go from your current R to the target.

Confirm coverage-per-bag, R-per-inch and set yield against the exact product you buy and order a little extra (~5–10%) for framing, gaps and settling. Coverage, R/inch and set yields vary by product and brand — read the bag/kit and the data sheet.

Calculator

R
Estimate from current depth × R/inch
R
R/in
Cellulose ~3.5, blown fiberglass ~2.5
Result
Added depth needed8.57 in
New total R-valueR-49
Existing R-valueR-19
R to addR-30

Going from R-19 to R-49 means adding R-30 — about 8.57 inches at 3.50 R/inch. You can add unfaced insulation over existing (no second vapor retarder) — confirm the assembly and moisture detailing on the data sheet and local code.

Most attics do not need a tear-out — they need a top-up. If you already have some insulation, you only pay for the gap between what is there and your target. This tool takes your existing R, your target R and the R per inch of whatever you are adding, and returns the inches to add plus the new total.

The default tops a tired R-19 attic up to R-49 with cellulose.

Formula

added_R = target_R − existing_R

added_depth_in = added_R ÷ R_per_inch

new_total_R = existing_R + added_R

Worked example

R-19 up to R-49 with cellulose. Added R = 49 − 19 = 30. Added depth = 30 ÷ 3.5 = 8.57 in. New total = R-49. You add roughly 8.5″ on top of the existing — you do not re-buy the R-19 you already own.

Background & practice

Add unfaced over existing. When you top up, use unfaced loose-fill or unfaced batts — a second faced (vapor-retarder) layer can trap moisture between the two and cause condensation. The existing facing stays; the new layer breathes.

Estimate the existing R honestly. Measure the current depth and multiply by a realistic R/inch (old, compressed or settled insulation is lower than fresh). If it is damp, moldy or rodent-fouled, remove it instead — then this becomes a removal-and-replace job (see the cost tool).

Air-seal before you bury. Adding depth over unsealed top plates, can lights and chases just insulates the leaks. Seal penetrations first; the added inches work far harder over a tight ceiling.

Reference table

MaterialR per inch (labeled)Inches for R-38Inches for R-49Field note
Fiberglass battR3.1–R3.4/in11.7 in15.1 inCheapest; watch gaps and compression
Blown fiberglassR2.2–R2.7/in15.5 in20.0 inLoose-fill; settles a little over time
CelluloseR3.2–R3.8/in10.9 in14.0 inDenser, less air movement; recycled paper
Mineral wool (Rockwool)R3.0–R3.3/in12.1 in15.6 inFire and water resistant; good acoustics
Open-cell spray foamR3.5–R3.7/in10.6 in13.6 inAir-seals; needs more depth for R
Closed-cell spray foamR6.0–R7.0/in5.8 in7.5 inHigh R/inch; adds rigidity, low perm
Rigid EPSR3.6–R4.2/in9.7 in12.6 inLowest-cost rigid board
Rigid XPSR4.5–R5.0/in8.0 in10.3 inMid rigid board; moisture resistant
Rigid polyisoR5.6–R6.5/in6.3 in8.1 inHighest rigid R; drops in cold temps

Labeled published planning typicals — confirm the rated R/inch on your product’s data sheet. Depth uses the band midpoint.

Frequently asked questions

How much insulation should I add to my attic?
Only the gap to your target. From R-19 to R-49 you add R-30, which is about 8.5 inches of cellulose or roughly 12 inches of blown fiberglass. You keep the R you already have.
Can I add new insulation over old?
Yes — use unfaced material so you do not create a second vapor retarder that traps moisture. If the existing insulation is wet, moldy or contaminated, remove it first instead.
How do I know my existing R-value?
Measure the current depth and multiply by a realistic R/inch for the material and its condition. Settled or compressed insulation performs below its original rating, so estimate on the low side.
Should I air-seal before topping up?
Absolutely. Seal top plates, wiring penetrations, can lights and chases before adding depth — insulation slows conduction but does little against air leaks. Sealing first makes every added inch count.