Insulation Thickness Calculator (Required R)

How deep does the insulation have to be to hit your target R? Divide the target by the material R per inch.

Typical published planning values — NOT a certified design. Real performance depends on installation quality, framing / thermal bridging, moisture and settling; follow the product data sheet and your local energy code. Foam ignition/thermal-barrier, vapor/moisture control and combustion-air safety are set by the manufacturer and code — check with a professional.

Calculator

R
e.g. R-49 for a cold-climate attic
R/in
Cellulose ~3.5, blown fiberglass ~2.5, closed-cell foam ~6.5
Result
Required thickness14.0 in
Target R-valueR-49
Material R per inch3.50 /in

To reach R-49 at 3.50 R per inch you need about 14.0 inches of material. R/inch is a labeled typical — confirm on your product’s data sheet.

Codes and ENERGY STAR talk in R-values, but the crew installs inches. This tool converts one to the other: give it the R you are chasing and the R per inch of the material, and it returns the depth you have to build. It is the single most useful number for an attic top-up — it tells you how deep to set the depth rulers before you start blowing.

The default targets a common cold-climate attic (R-49) with cellulose at R-3.5/in.

Formula

required_thickness_in = target_R ÷ R_per_inch

Higher R per inch = fewer inches. That is why closed-cell foam fits an R-value into a shallow cavity that batts never could.

Worked example

Target R-49 attic, three ways. Cellulose at R-3.5/in: 49 ÷ 3.5 = 14.0 in. Blown fiberglass at R-2.5/in: 49 ÷ 2.5 = 19.6 in. Closed-cell foam at R-6.5/in: 49 ÷ 6.5 = 7.5 in. Same R, wildly different depth — which is exactly how you decide whether the material fits the space you have.

Background & practice

Blow it a little deep. Loose-fill settles, so set your depth cards ~1–2″ over the calculated number for blown fiberglass and cellulose. The bags are sold by coverage at settled depth, so a shallow-looking finished job is usually an under-filled one.

Cavity depth is the hard limit. A 2×10 rafter gives you 9.25″ of usable cavity. If your target needs more inches than the cavity holds, you either switch to a higher-R material (foam), fur the framing out, or accept the lower R the cavity can hold.

What to measure first: the depth you actually have to fill, and the R per inch printed on the product — not a generic average. For the bag/kit count once you know the depth, jump to the blown-in or spray-foam calculators.

Reference table

MaterialR-30R-38R-49R-60
Fiberglass batt9.2 in11.7 in15.1 in18.5 in
Blown fiberglass12.2 in15.5 in20.0 in24.5 in
Cellulose8.6 in10.9 in14.0 in17.1 in
Mineral wool (Rockwool)9.5 in12.1 in15.6 in19.0 in
Open-cell spray foam8.3 in10.6 in13.6 in16.7 in
Closed-cell spray foam4.6 in5.8 in7.5 in9.2 in
Rigid EPS7.7 in9.7 in12.6 in15.4 in
Rigid XPS6.3 in8.0 in10.3 in12.6 in
Rigid polyiso5.0 in6.3 in8.1 in9.9 in

Inches of material to reach each target R, at the labeled band midpoint. A shallow rafter or joist bay can cap what fits — measure the cavity before you order.

Frequently asked questions

How thick should attic insulation be for R-49?
About 14 inches of cellulose (R-3.5/in), roughly 19–20 inches of blown fiberglass (R-2.5/in), or about 7.5 inches of closed-cell spray foam (R-6.5/in). Set your depth rulers a touch higher to allow for settling.
How many inches is R-30 / R-38 / R-60?
At the cellulose midpoint (~3.5/in): R-30 ≈ 8.6″, R-38 ≈ 10.9″, R-60 ≈ 17.1″. The depth table lists every common material and target side by side.
Does more thickness always mean more R?
Within one material, yes — R is linear with depth. But diminishing returns are about cost and space, not physics: going from R-38 to R-60 adds inches and dollars for a smaller heat-loss cut than the first R-19 gave you.
What if the cavity is too shallow?
Use a higher R-per-inch material (closed-cell foam packs R-6.5/in into the space), add continuous rigid foam on the face, or fur the framing deeper. Do not compress a thick batt into a thin bay — it loses R.